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Not all. Metal condensates. I would think the opposite. If there is no paper under the metal, condensation will end up rotting the wood. The metal is sealed with roofing cement so water isn't finding its way there as it stops when it hits the roofing cement, if it even makes it under the shingles. We don't have the ice dam situation here. Ice dam, water moves up into and underneath shingles farther than just rain. here is a link to a video I did about the dripedge over under ruclips.net/video/JmV5c52MUEI/видео.html

nice. Always good to learn a new trick.

Once I've defined an area, I am really sealing all suspects. The nails are one, but also there is the sidelaps or side seams in the shingles as water can travel underneath shingles and find the side laps. That is how water will get underneath shingles and onto the paper underneath, if not through nail holes. Also, this roof is needing replaced, I was just buying some time. I'm sure it has been replaced by now. Rotten wood would be apparent by soft area. Usually if the leak is spotted in time, the wood is not rotten yet and will just dry. Also, once you pop the shingles up, there is no (or a lot less) wind resistance without adding some more adhesive, sealing the nails is doing two jobs at once.

It's the exact color. The existing are dirty, and the new are well, new. The New will eventually blend with the existing. Can't purchase 15 year old shingles.

It's code. The nails hold the paper in place for wind resistance while waiting for the shingles, and also so the paper won't slide out while we walk on it. Once the shingles go on, the paper becomes secondary. There will be more holes when the shingles are installed.

That is one way to look at it. Thank you

30#

THANK YOU SO MUCH@@PracticalRoofingConcepts

OK

It happens, but not very often. When you are hand nailing, usually you can feel it right away. With a nail gun, you just have to fix it as you go. Not a show stopper

Usually 1/8 in is suffice, but you will get a feel for it. The shingle along with the roofing cement will last a long time once bonded together.

Yes. Would not use a torch. Torchdown material has bitumen in the roll. Cold applied material the bitumen is in the can. You can use a torch to warm up the material so it is easier to work with, but melting the material is not the right idea. Unless, the material is torchdown or APP.

$1500

Yes, it did. couple of small leaks

Since this roof needs to be replaced, I would say this repair would last the life of the roof.

News to me

Possibly a better seal of the duct to the tarpaper. They even make transitions that seal to the roof and go up into the vent further. In our area that doesn't seem to be a problem.

Follow from the beginning at Video 1 ruclips.net/p/PLCnkB2WaiXnAhGxnoxDHshcVxE-2CFb53 link to the playlist

Glad it helped!

Thank you

Thanks!

Thank you

That is the way we do it around here. Either way, I would put something over the wood and then the metal and then the primary underlayment

Depends on your area. In Florida it is common practice to install the dripedge on top of the paper and then seal with roofing cement. The roofing cement also bonds to the starter and keeps the shingles better "stuck" to the edge. If you're not in Florida, you should probably follow the code and install the paper over the dripedge. I would use a slip sheet so you're not installing the dripedge directly over wood.

interesting. Seems to be 6" mostly and sometimes 5" offset

It happens.

Wow, thanks!

I put it on my key line. So once the next starter goes on, my first shingle will go on the next key line so they don't match up. The starter and first shingle will then be 6" apart, just like the rest of the shingles. Have seen many leaks due to the starter and first shingle lining up.

Glad it helped

Look at about 05:32 and they are right there.

So nice of you

That's hot

Yes, and apparently only in Florida.

Thank you

Keep like materials together. If you are working with asphalt products, make sure the adhesive is asphalt based. Also, use adhesive versus roofing cement. Adhesive is designed to harden and roofing cement may never harden as they have 2 different functions. Also, asphalt primer is key when adhering material.

Yes, fully adhered. Nail off the tarpaper better. Granulated modified bitumen cap sheet will last longer than organic rolled roofing.

Apparently, only Florida building code allows dripedge to be placed over underlayment as long as it is sealed with roofing cement. If it is 1/2" per foot, shingles should not be installed in that situation. That is considered a low slope application, which I would then use granulated cap sheet. ruclips.net/p/PLCnkB2WaiXnDHywCBxh6eQyPT-gTcsDat - I did a series on a self adhered flat roof. Check the code in your area, but mostly it would be a sealed system.

👍

Seems to work well.

Thank you

Thank you

It was a new install (warranty) and I wanted to make sure the finished product was still granulated modified. I also wanted to stay with like materials. If it was a new call and this was the complaint, then I may have applied a coating product to remove the low spot.

Not sure about that, but the hook blade does a good job.

This is the typical installation for shingles in Florida and it works well. Rotting roof edge usually happens when starter seams line up with seams of the first row. The roofing cement is what seals the dripedge off and also keeps the shingles from blowing off during a storm. We don't have snow, ice, or ice dams, which is the reasoning behind the underlayment going over the dripedge.

Roofing supply

Good point. Always sealing for water getting in, but not out. In this area the condensation is not as much of a worry for exterior vents. I would expect that in other locales it is greater due to the temperature differential during the colder months.

Glad it helped

We do not use RT 600 anymore. Use an adhesive caulking. We are currently using Solar Seal brand. It works great and lasts longer than RT600.

Thank you

Shift your weight. Don't stomp like you're walking on a sidewalk. Also, walk on the bottoms of the tile. The bottom of the tile is resting on the top of the tile below, which is resting on the roof. The middle of the tiles are not resting on anything. Either way, you will still break them.

Also wear sneakers

That's for sure.